With the fuel line disconnected,
and the carb drained and removed from the intake manifold, we began by
inspecting the aluminum plugs pressed into the body of the carb. They
needed to be tight and show no signs of leakage. If leakage was
evident, S&S could supply replacement plugs.
After removing the idle mixture
screw (we counted how many turns it took to back it out and recorded
that number for later use), it was time to inspect the fitment between
the throttle plate and the carburetor's throat. If we saw light between
the two when the plate was in the closed position, then we'd suspect
the plate may be worn and needed replacement. This was also a good time
to check for wear on the throttle shaft.
S&S Carb Rebuild Demystifying Super G Maintenance
With a history of proven performance firmly
behind S&S Cycle, it's no wonder so many V-twins out there are
equipped with S&S carburetors to ensure the motor is fed the proper
air/fuel mixture for optimum performance. As with everything else on a
bike, periodic maintenance is required to keep its carb in top
condition.
While you may observe a clean and shiny
carburetor on the outside, there's a really good chance things are not
so rosy looking on the inside. Sooner or later, it comes time remove
the carb, disassemble it, and clean, inspect, and replace parts due to
the accumulation of small particles of sediment resulting from contact
with gasoline over time. These particles have a knack of getting
themselves into passages and orifices designed to meter air and fuel
precisely.
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Once in there, these particles can cause poor
motor performance. In addition, friction causes wear on numerous
internal surfaces. Left unchecked, the combination of wear and
contamination can spell bad news. But, there is a solution.
Follow along as we take you through the steps
involved in rebuilding a Super G (as well as a Super E) with the parts
included in S&S' Master Rebuild Kit. This service is not that
difficult and should take someone with even modest mechanical skills
around two to three hours. Although not shown in the photos, a good
carb cleaner should be used each step of the way to be sure all the
parts are clean prior to assembly.
After cleaning off the tip of the idle mixture screw, we took a Sharpie
and coated the tapered portion of it with ink. It was then reinserted
until it bottomed out. We then removed it again and inspected it to see
if there were any signs of any uneven wear. If there were, we would
have had to replace it with the new piece included in the kit.
We pulled the enrichment plunger
from the body by removing the plunger nut and spring. We then closely
inspected the metal tip of the stock plunger and used a flashlight to
get a good look at the mating seating surface to be sure it too was in
good shape.
It was then time to remove the
screws that secured the bowl assembly to the carb body. We refrained
from removing the pump cap assembly at this point to avoid losing the
ball checks and springs.
Before any damage was done to
the float, the float pin screw was removed to gain access to, and
remove, the float pin, needle, and float.
Since the float pin was beginning to wear, we replaced it with a new one.
Next, we removed the existing seat from the bottom of the bowl and replaced it with the new one in the kit.
Pressed into the bottom of the
bowl is the ejector nozzle. Since it is pressed in, we did not try to
remove it from the bowl. We inspected it to be sure there were no kinks
in it and then replaced the ejector nozzle O-ring.
We inspected the float closely
for signs of holes or leakage, then we replaced the old needle with the
new one, replaced the assembly back into the bowl, and checked to
ensure that the parts moved freely. At this point, we momentarily put
the bowl gasket in place to check how close the edge of the float was
to it. Because the two were within 1/32 inch, all was fine.
We flipped the bowl over and
removed the screws that secured the pump cap in place. With the cap out
of the way, we carefully removed the balls and O-rings from the
aluminum casting.
Contained in the rebuild kit is a new diaphragm, which, along with the ball checks, ball check seals, and spring, was replaced.
Before we could reassemble the carburetor, the pump shaft and boot were replaced.
We were in the home stretch. A
new bowl gasket was put in place before the two halves were rejoined
and secured with the four screws.
Installation of the cables was much easier since they were put in place before the carb was bolted to the intake manifold.
With the carb in the proper
position, the backing plate and breather assembly got bolted back
together with the aid of some blue Loctite. Having experienced screws
loosening up in this area in the past, we decided some safety wire was
in order to keep them from the potential problems associated with
getting sucked into the intake and through the engine.
Since we counted the number of
turns needed to remove the idle mixture screw earlier, all we had to do
now was put it back to the same position to get us into the ballpark.
We then checked the cables as the bike warmed up and made the final
mixture adjustment before blasting down the road to check things out.
SOURCES
S&S Cycle (608) 627-2080
www.sscycle.com
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